Tanzania... weird.

I made it all the way to Kilamajaro, although due to another mix up no one was there to pick me up. It is fitting that my journey home was just a stressful as my journey to India. I've got to say what I saw from the plane Africa looks amazingly green and everyone I've met has been more than nice. I'm excited to venture away from our hotel and see what Tanzania is all about. We start our Safari in two days. So, I'll be posting later rather than sooner.

 

Oh and for those who understand, I ate cheese.

Dubai....wow

Dubai contains the most variety of people I've seen in a along time, maybe ever. It is amazing to see many people in such diverse traditional dress. Emirates is also my new favorite airline, hands down. They are partners with SriLanken, for those who have flown them. I ordered some random vegetarian meal, they had something like 6 different veg options. I did this when I bought my ticket and forgot. Well, sure enough they brought me a special veg meal with no egg or milk. I think it was strict Asian Veg. This is coming from flying AirIndia where they ran out of vegetarian meals before finishing the first half of the plane.

 

/خرث /هىيسشغ

From shit of a day to realizing that I have a great life.

In brief I lost my ticket for my train from Bejing to Macau, take the next on no big deal. I board and want to start my next sock to realize I have lost a needle and think, ""ticket, needle it could be worse." Then it got worse, my journal... I had left it after ripping a page out to write info about India for a friend on. I went into the bathroom and lost my face, i.e. cried. It not only held thoughts from the past few months, but my lesson plans for the summer and all of my mridagum lessons. Then I realize my train is cutting it close and Ï'm not exactly sure how to cross the border, I know a bus ride is involved. I befriend a person in my cabin who lends me his cell phone, my journal is at the hostel. Although there is no one to call about the border and he has no idea. Well, he ends up calling friends who give me the basics. Our train is an hour late. The bus which was meant to take 1.5hours takes 2.5. When crossing the border into Macau you have to go through customs, twice. Let's just say I miss my flight, it''s there, but I'm not allowed on. I'll just take the next one, which is the next afternoon, 20hours away. I freak out, I am meeting my mom at the airport in Africa. I don't want to just leave her there waiting. I use my credit card to make calls, the only person I talk to live is Jessica Lennard, I am balling. Within a few calls, good old chase turns off my card. I spent the little actual cash I had to buy a coke. It made me feel amazingly better. Then I remembered a phone card we'd had in high school. You would not believe how many of you did not pick up your phone. To say the least I tried 3/4 of the numbers I had, even calling Chicago Shakes. I was a mess.

And you know what? My friends saved me. I mean, I felt so alone, stranded and the next thing I knew Katie and Jessica had talked to my mom and the people in Africa. Turns out by accident my mom and I were flying into different airports. That would have been a shocker arriving in Africa to realize. I am now safe on my way, feeling really great. I can't say enough how much my friends mean to me. To those I didn't reach and weren't part of my superhero team, I promise there will be a next time. Until then, thanks to the people who helped me out more than they'll even know. Just telling me how you were calmed me down more than you believe.

 

ps. I'm still not sure how to spell doug out in numbers. Ha.
.com

No, I don't think I lost my face, but I did come close

There is this big thing in China about "losing your face." It's embrassing someone, proving they do not know everything. People do not like to ask for directions or show any weakness, basicly the opposite of India. This is something that took a long time getting used to. It is rude to doubt someone or even suggest they do not know exactly what is going on. Well last night I almost... let's just say my face hopefully will make it all the way to Chicago. Last night I was walking back to my hostel after talking to my mom on the phone and promising I would be safe in Bejing. I got a little turned around and needed to use the restroom badly, it seems like the one time there is no public restroom in sight. So I hope in a cab, logical. I give the guy my map and what should be a 12quai ride, turns into a 30quai ride, I still don't know if he was lost or just taking me for a ride. But I gave him the map and we still went in circles. Then he tells me here, just down that street, takes my money and leaves. I was so mad it had been so expensive I accidently left the map back to my hotel and realized he dropped me somewhere random. It was just one of those days. So I wonder and some things looked familiar; some looked, well not. It was so frustrating, I did make it back okay. It was an early night, today I was going to see the Great Wall. Well, in the middle of the night my alarm fell from my bunk, the battery came out and no alarm went off. I woke up at 6:55, bolted outside and the group had left only 5 minutes prior. Apaprtently if you go by yourself the taxi is almost $100. So instead of doing the one thing I really wanted to do, the reason I came with Katie to Bejing I did something that scared the crap out of me. I rented a bike. It was amazing, the best day I could have had hands down. Since I was up early the streets were crowded with old people on bikes, I followed them to a huge park. There were probably 30 different crowds of people. A lot of them were practicing songs, some reciting poetry; there were old women dancing; people learning to play loads of different instruments. I think it is because the Olympics are coming and China is trying to re-infuse some of it's old culture back in. By 10 the park was empty and I headed to see the Temple of Heaven, but got lost and frustrated. And as I road by Tianamen Square and looked up at Chairman Mao, I decided it was worth getting frustrated and if I just rode then I wouldn't get lost. It was spelndid. Bejing is one of the best cities I have been to. Definately in the top three. So I rode for hours, stopped when I saw interesting things. I even stopped for Sushi for lunch, random. It was a wonderful day and there is still so much of it left.

 

Happy mother's day to mom and Lez.

And I forgot to mention on a sad note Blind Kitty has left us and is now in Kitty Heaven.

 

This will be my last post before Africa. Sending my love across the oceans.

 

Tibet: One mile or Gilligan's Island in the Sky

Our adventure in Yunan was meant to be slowly making our way further from the tourists and search for some peace and quiet. Well we did find find the middle of no where. We had been staying in a small vilage called Shergu and it was one of those places you dream of staying in. There are no big hotels and only a hand full of guest houses. The stone paved roads wind alng the side of s slight hill. And because it is so tucked away there are still traditions here that have not been erased or forced to change. The people are kind, although taking a photo is not okay. It may capture their soul. This is a good excuse if I ever heard one. We walked not just through the village, but though the fields. The amazing thing is it's all public land, so we could wonder to our heart content.

 

For some reason we decided this was not enough for us, we wanted to venture farther. This was to a place called Weixi(a mispelling I'm sure) and it was only 80 km away, a simple day trip for 6 excited travelers. So we jumped in a van and were off. We should have known something was wrong when we had to stop and ask for directions within the first five minutes. But the drive was beautiful, along a beautiful, huge, paved road. The hills were amazing and reminded me a lot of Sikkim. I mean, we were again in the foothills of the Himalayas. The drive was not the hour and a half we expected, more like 4. And the "village", was more like a huge city in the middle of no where. But the drive... Our driver came into the resturant and explained, sort of, that we had taken the long way and the way home would be much quicker. Which is nice because it was getting late and the last thing you want to do is lose the light on hilly roads. 

 

The way back was, an adventure. There was not a single paved road and we got lost probably 5 times. In the middle of darkness we would have to back up or turn around on narrow roads with no light. Stopping at the only house we'd seen in an hour to ask which way we should have taken at the fork. Finding out we had taken the wrong on. It seemed to go on for hours, that's mainly because it did. Out 3 hour tour took more like 12 hours. There was more than one time I thought we were going to run out of gas or have to sleep in the middle of the cold wilderness because our driver was tired. Don't get me wrong I like the cold wilderness, but I like it when I have something longsleeved and maybe some close toed shoes.  


 

If you want to call, then go ahead. We'll be near the phone until thursday.

86-27-6137-8517

Remember there is a 12 or 13 hour difference.

LT

I don't need no stinking comments.

China, just like everywhere else seems to be full of these crazy contradictions and in this case so much of it is based on the government. This week in China is May break, so everyone has the week off from there jobs. Well, everyone except the people who run the places people go visit. We started our time in Macau, a part of China that missed the cultural revolution and there for feels a little less gray. (Please note at this exact moment "I can show you the world" from Aladdin is playing in the internet cafe, a remix version.) It has the cobbled stone roads and neon signs synonymous with kung fu movies. We spent our day there mostly walking around and adjusting to these unfamiliar surroundings. There are shops with slabs of baked sweet meat on every corner, they are displayed right on the streets under intense lights. Everything is in Cantonease, which can be difficult since in 7 months I couldn't seem to learn to read Hindi. On the other hand I learned the symbol for guest house and which has proved to be helpful. I think if you are trying to learn the basics while traveling being able to learn symbols is easier than trying to learn an alphabet, then the words which the alphabet make up.
Our train ride to Kunming what absolutely crazy. It cost 5x more than any train ride in India and we crossed that country in large chunks. The trains are amazingly nice, like everything here. Rundown is not something China seems to do. The trains(all) are air conditioned. They give you sheets, a pillow, and a blanket. It was the nicest I've slept in months. There is someone who comes around every few hours and empties both of the trashcans in your compartment. There are two curtains on all of the windows, one to shade the sun and one to block out all light. Crazy to say the least.
Kunming what much more high tech than Kate and Duff had expected, but was much more Chinese than Macau. The crowds of people were overwhelming, even coming from India. And here you are expected to bargain for everything, but the prices are gouged much higher than they ever were in India. If something is 300qui here you can offer 30.
Yunnan, specifically Lijang where we are, seems to miraculously missed the cultural revolution, or perhaps was set aside by the government as the part of China that could have culture. And everyone comes here to see "culture". Watching the Chinese on holiday is quite a spectacle. Children are spoiled beyond belief, mainly because they are all only children. Can you imagine what this generation will be like when they get older? Being, sort of, an only child I can say I would not want a nation of only children. But then I think the government may have been genius when making this rule. They want a society that cares only about China, and they are raising people who know only how to think about themselves. Apparently if you have twins you are okay, but if you get pregnant a second time they can force you to have an abortion. If, by some miracle you have a second child, there is a huge fine. Such a controlled society makes me twitchy (So does "Don't cry for me Argentina" which is now playing.). Today we are heading to, hopefully, a more rural town for a few days. Then to Wuhan, from everyone's descriptions sounds like a gray hole. Oh, I am traveling with Kate, Duff and two girls from Mississippi, Megan and Lindsey. Chinese with a southern accent is one of the funniest things I've heard in a long time. They both teach English here as well, but amazingly most of the tourist we've met speak Chinese. I guess you would have to to really do anything in this country. I never really appreciated how many people in India spoke some English. Now we are off. Sending you all love.

Blog, why does China hate you?

We are unable to see our blogs and hope they are being treated well. China is, pretty much everything I wasn't ready for. I've spent the last few months being overloaded with India and thinking of home, never considering this vast country. It's bizarre because everyone is in western clothes, in mainland China they drive on the right side of the road, the buildings are huge and yet it is the most culture shock I've had since leaving Chicago.

 

We are now in Yunnan, in Kumming, but shortly we hop on an overnight bus and out of this city. It's bizarre because of everything China has been through "new China" is really new. This major city only 20 years ago was a rural town in the Yunnan Provence. Now it is easily the most crowded feeling city I've been to. It is Spring Festival so no one is at work, but all sharing the sidewalk(!) with us. Today a parade stopped traffic for hours and we headed, obviously, to the pet market. We are talking puppies, kittens, turtle, rabbits, rats, geckos, birds, worms(for feeding), squirrels and I'm sure there is something I'm forgetting. You could wonder the market and pick up what ever you wanted, I almost lost it.

 

It's crazy going from a country where everyone could do whatever they wanted, businesses where all self owned and culture was celebrated. To this. More to come, once I begin to understand.

China, with a capital C

So we're in China, and if there's one thing that is certain we are not in India anymore. The building are huge, the people are short and I feel really uncool. Kate and Duff picked us up after an adventure of a plane ride and we are off to Yunan soon. But for now there's a line to use the internet, so catch you all on the flip side.

 

Love,

 

LT

The last 12 hours

It now seems like a mere series of dream adventures, the real world is now about to stare me in the face. There are so many questions which float is my consciousness. How will I teach cherubs enough in 5 weeks? What will I do after that? Is grad school the right choice? Should I mover to Honduras or learn Hindi and return to India? There is no question that I will return here soon. The only question is how soon? And why? I have planted roots in this country and will leave a little of myself behind with the hopes of returning and find what my small seed will sow. I leave behind more friends than I can count and families that have treated me as their own.

 

Blayne is in the air right now and there is a slight silence where his presence was. I say slight cause the boy was always reading a damn book. I feel lucky to have been able to spend so much time with him, 3 months every day is more hours than I've spent with most people I know. He's a true rockstar. Now we, Katie and I, sit and count down the hours to hop on a plane of our own and leave behind all of this. It's unreal.

 

I'm not sure what to write so here are the beginnings to some list I've started to keep.

 

Misconceptions about India from a western perspective or Contridictions.

 

1. "The caste system rules the country." Not true, it rarely enters into a conversation. People are now held back by their caste, only by their perspective.

 

2."The caste system no longer exist." It's everywhere, sometimes you just choose to call it by another name. It plays a bigger part in this society than is seen of the surface.

 

3."India is dirty." People are always cleaning here, the problem is there is no where for all the garbage to go. There are not only pollution control programs for cars and rickshaws, but many states have laws against plastic bags.

 

4. "India is crowded and over populated." There is more deserted land here than people know what to do with. Villages that are self sufficient are everywhere. It is in the cities that the masses are overwhelming.

 

5."It's hotter than Hades." We froze in Sikkim and I wore a sweater for my first 4 months.

 

6. "Everyone is trying to find spiritual enlightenment." People here have a strong faith in something and are shocked that some many foreigners come looking.

 

7. "You'll turn into sticks and bones." Who ever started this rumor must have missed all the street food and never eaten a roti. The food here is everywhere and rich with flavor and ghee.

 

 

I will write more as soon as I step away and really see what's going on. Until then, see you all in China.

 

LT

Fwd: So much to do, so little time

You might be asking yourselves what on earth will they do with their last 10 days in India? There is so much to choose from, so many places left unvisited and undiscovered. Well, we just went back to our favorites. Okay, two out of the three, Sikkim just a little too far. Although if Blayne had really had a choice I think we would be in the Himalayas right about now.

 

We went back to Ahmedabad, I think the best big city in India to do all of our favorite things. You know, drink a good Lassi, walk though amazing markets and of course, have some clothes tailored. The city has all the excitement you could dream or, except being a dry state. The markets seem to go on for days and endless wind you in circles. It's great because the streets are crowded with people, cows and bicycles, but as soon as you enter a shop it all disappears. The best moments are sitting on the floor of a shop with an owner, sipping some chai and talking about the fabrics that surround us. Hand block printed fabric that their family has been making for generations. I will miss the personal interactions you get with everyone here, even if for a brief moment. The markets are amazing in India because they are separate by type of goods. You can be wondering the fabric markets turn a corner and be in the most amazing flower market. People stringing magnolias and creating amazing arrangements. Then again turn the corner and be in the meat market, the stench of raw flesh makes me happy to be a vegetarian. You can find anything at the market in Ahmedabad, if you just look hard enough. We also were lucky enough to have a friend who goes to school in the city, at the hip National Institute of Design. It's were all the young cool art students study and wondering it's campus made me feel at home. At home at least until we walked out of it's gates and ate at an amazing eunuch omelet shop. It's just a small cart, that has fold of tables and chairs which are set up on the side of a fairly busy road. Perfect. We had tasty omelets and some amazing conversation. Between my broken hindi and lacking mudra skills the communication went fairly well. What a life. There was an amazing server who was probably 60, had only one front tooth, but loved sharing his bidis with me. How can you say no to such an amazing man.

 

Okay, on the flip side of Ahmedabad we headed to Bhuj, in Kutch. How could we come all the way to Gujarat and not see the Ribaris. Our trip was kind of like going home, not only were the people at the hotel happy to have us back, but so was our favorite rickshaw driver. On our last visit we had tea with his family, this time we had the full treatment. His family is a great example of people who are living without structure, but have everything they could dream of. His house is an open courtyard which is partially covered for sleeping by a tarp roof, and a bamboo structure which serves as their only room and additional sleeping space for the 7 people who live there. But this family is rich, the oldest daughter, 19 makes all of their very smart looking kurtas. Each time we have visited we never leave empty handed, they always insist on giving us a pair of earrings or bangles. I have never met a more lovely family. After an early morning tea with his wife, 3 daughters and blind grandmother we agreed to an evening jaunt to the hill garden. This included Blayne getting dressed up in a traditional muslin kurta, with matching pants and small beanie(which fit him like a where's waldo cap). The evening was spent playing on an epic playground, which included lots of equipment I had never played on until now. We watched a puppet show and rode one of those death defying carnival rides that feels like you could fly off at any moment if it weren't for a bolt of two. On our last night they even cooked a huge feast for us, which is a lot to ask for from any family. And they asked for nothing in return, although the oldest girl did make us promise not to forget her. I would never dare.

 

Now we are back in Bombay and on our way out sooner than I realize. Pure craziness.

 

--
www.indiaorindiana.blogspot.com

So much to do, so little time

You might be asking yourselves what on earth will they do with their last 10 days in India? There is so much to choose from, so many places left unvisited and undiscovered. Well, we just went back to our favorites. Okay, two out of the three, Sikkim just a little too far. Although if Blayne had really had a choice I think we would be in the Himalayas right about now.

 

We went back to Ahmedabad, I think the best big city in India to do all of our favorite things. You know, drink a good Lassi, walk though amazing markets and of course, have some clothes tailored. The city has all the excitement you could dream or, except being a dry state. The markets seem to go on for days and endless wind you in circles. It's great because the streets are crowded with people, cows and bicycles, but as soon as you enter a shop it all disappears. The best moments are sitting on the floor of a shop with an owner, sipping some chai and talking about the fabrics that surround us. Hand block printed fabric that their family has been making for generations. I will miss the personal interactions you get with everyone here, even if for a brief moment. The markets are amazing in India because they are separate by type of goods. You can be wondering the fabric markets turn a corner and be in the most amazing flower market. People stringing magnolias and creating amazing arrangements. Then again turn the corner and be in the meat market, the stench of raw flesh makes me happy to be a vegetarian. You can find anything at the market in Ahmedabad, if you just look hard enough. We also were lucky enough to have a friend who goes to school in the city, at the hip National Institute of Design. It's were all the young cool art students study and wondering it's campus made me feel at home. At home at least until we walked out of it's gates and ate at an amazing eunuch omelet shop. It's just a small cart, that has fold of tables and chairs which are set up on the side of a fairly busy road. Perfect. We had tasty omelets and some amazing conversation. Between my broken hindi and lacking mudra skills the communication went fairly well. What a life. There was an amazing server who was probably 60, had only one front tooth, but loved sharing his bidis with me. How can you say no to such an amazing man.

 

Okay, on the flip side of Ahmedabad we headed to Bhuj, in Kutch. How could we come all the way to Gujarat and not see the Ribaris. Our trip was kind of like going home, not only were the people at the hotel happy to have us back, but so was our favorite rickshaw driver. On our last visit we had tea with his family, this time we had the full treatment. His family is a great example of people who are living without structure, but have everything they could dream of. His house is an open courtyard which is partially covered for sleeping by a tarp roof, and a bamboo structure which serves as their only room and additional sleeping space for the 7 people who live there. But this family is rich, the oldest daughter, 19 makes all of their very smart looking kurtas. Each time we have visited we never leave empty handed, they always insist on giving us a pair of earrings or bangles. I have never met a more lovely family. After an early morning tea with his wife, 3 daughters and blind grandmother we agreed to an evening jaunt to the hill garden. This included Blayne getting dressed up in a traditional muslin kurta, with matching pants and small beanie(which fit him like a where's waldo cap). The evening was spent playing on an epic playground, which included lots of equipment I had never played on until now. We watched a puppet show and rode one of those death defying carnival rides that feels like you could fly off at any moment if it weren't for a bolt of two. On our last night they even cooked a huge feast for us, which is a lot to ask for from any family. And they asked for nothing in return, although the oldest girl did make us promise not to forget her. I would never dare.

 

Now we are back in Bombay and on our way out sooner than I realize. Pure craziness.

 

Don't be sad

Okay, so no blog for today. I know, you are all waiting with baited breath. But there are new picture's. Look under Kerala and Sri Lanka for some new pics. Soon, soon, soon.

 

Love,

 

Lindsay

 

Mail me something in China!

If you're dying to send me a letter,and I know you are I have an address, kind of. You can send it to Kate in China, where I'll be in only 2 weeks, for 2 weeks. So if you do the math it has one month to arrive. Please note this does not mean I'll be home in one month, still another to go. Sending you all love. LT

Kate Riker
International Office
Hubei University of Technology
Wuchang, Wuhan, Hubei
CHINA 430068

All good things come in 3's

1.

 

Our last night in Kerela was on of the highlights, something to check off the unspoken list. We went to see Pradeep, my mudras teacher, perform in an all night Katakali performance at a temple near by. We made the trip by bus and filled out stomachs will good food before venturing to the temple. When we arrived at the temple we ran into Vishnu, a boy from Aranmula(where we had been staying), random I know. He seemed to sort of know what was going on an gave us a quick tour. There were Karnatic vocal performers on the stage, people were sleeping everywhere, preparing for the all night ordeal. Then we went into one of the most interesting  rooms I've entered in a long time, the Make-up room. A common part of the Katakali performance is that anyone is welcome to watch them come and prepare. It was a sight to been seen as all the performers are crowded around a single hanging exposed bulb. When we arrived at 9:00pm Pradeep was already showing signs of basic make-up as he sat and at his dinner. He would not go on until 2:30am. The actors crowded around this single bulb are applying their own extensive make-up, perfection is the only option. The make-up has all been hand ground and it is applied using small bamboo twigs. It's takes more hours than you'd ever want to think about. On top of that thereis also the Chutti, a paper arc, which is applied above the chin. When we post picture it is the large white thing framing their face. It is hand make for each performer, for each performance. Like a make-up artist in the states, the Chutti guy always has work. Looking at a complete Chutti you would never guess is just plain white paper, the kind your printer takes. And yet the actor must lay on his back white the extensive chutti is applied. It is attached using a paste which is ground it a coconut. Apparently it is not uncommon for the actor just to fall asleep. The amount of detail which goes into every show, no matter how big, is amazing. It's important to step back and remember that this is an offering to the Gods. It's an interesting concept to have this piece of theatre be either an offering from a temple during a festival, or an offering from a family with the hopes of health, prosperity or fertility. . Even if no one is there to watch the performance it always goes on, it is not about the audience, but about the ritual.  Imagine if that same sacred feeling was true with all theatre. All of the Katakali performers were me, although there are rumors of women. Pradeep is currently training a girl who is 10. She started when she was 3 and at 5 performed her first Krishna Patanam(a 15 minute performance). As we watched the men layer their costumes it was amazing to see that no corners are ever cut. They wear these amazing puffy skits, that's the technical name. There is first a bum roll added to give it such a drastic shape. Then then use a 5" piece of fabric, tying it at the waist and slowly as they turn they as layers of potato like sacks. First folded into 1/4, then folded into 1/2, forcing the under layer of the skirt to have a dramatic shape. This basic/under dress held more character than any costumes I've seen in ages. Then the drummers on stage played a rhythm calling the first story to the stage and we were off. From 10pm to 6am we enjoyed this spectacle for the Gods. I was fascinated by the precision in which all of the scenes were performer, as well as the indeflatable way the performers played into the night. Each story is made up of only a handful of scenes. There are two vocal performers who are singing in Malayalam(the language of Kerala) and Sanskrit, they are telling the story and the actors using mudras, hand gestures, are acting it out. Pradeep stole the show, he put everything in his heart into the story. From his first moment on stage I was captivated. Katakali performers are training in an excruciating method, which begins from the moment they decided to dedicate their lives. This begins as early as age 7, when they drop out of school and study the art. Training takes a minimum of 8 years. They learn all of the 212 characters and can perform them on a moments notice. Often an actor will show up to a performance and not know who he is playing until he gets there. Most actors I know back home I don't think would really be up for the task. Pradeep performs as it this is his role, as if he plays it every day. It's an interesting thought that these actors never create a role, only fill a spot. They learn each beat for each part, the mudras and facial expressions, but there is never a chance to make a role your own. There is never the opportunity to play with a role, try something new, because the role is only yours for that one day and your scene partner and you exist only in that moment. On one hand I feel like that is real theatre, on the other hand, is it theatre at all?

2.

 

Now we find our selves back in Bombay, doing our favorite thing to do in Bombay, seeing Shakespeare. This time we went to a performance of A Midsummer's Nights Dream, directed by Tim Supple and sponsored by the British Council. The method and circumstances he used to create it are the exact ones I've been dreaming of. He ran workshops all over India and Sri Lanka and found an amazing group of actors. In total the official languages of  Sri Lanka and India are something like 19, and he is using this to his advantage. India is the only place I've been where a movie can be in two languages simultaneously and it works  brillantly. Well, he took that and exploded it. All the actors speak in the language they are most comfortable, each already understand the myth they are telling. As I sat in the audience I understood the words in English and some in Hindi, but I understood the feeling of all 9 languages that were spoken during this performance. Not only does he do an phenomenal job with languages, but also with movements. Many of the actors have a strong background in the dance and martial arts of their region and they are blended together in a strong movement style. It was interesting seeing elements of the Kalari we studied in Kerala, mixed in with the dance style of Rajasthan. It is this blend of cultures though myth that I'm most interested in currently.

 

3.

 

I bought a pair of jeans!!! I didn't really know I had legs, wow.

 

Kerala, you have won me over.

School has come to a conclusion and it's time to move beyond this paradise that is Kerala. Over the past few weeks we have seen the high temperature rise over 5 degrees Celsius, which is crazy. Just sitting at this computer, cooled by the swiveling fan my body is covered by a layer of sweat. A nice thought, I'm sure. It's funny actually how little the heat will bother you if you never enter a air conditioned room. Most of my day is spent in different palm leaf covered pavilions, which allows for the cool breeze to satiate my needs. The school is set in a small village of Aranmula, stereotypical of the lush Keralan landscape. Palm trees are bountiful and flowers seem to spring up in the most unexpected places.  The walls are plastered with movie posters, in which the lead man always has a thick, bushy mustache and the female, looking as if she's stepped out of as movie from 1980, with her cropped shirt and high rise jeans. And it not as if there is one poster per movie on each wall, it is usually one poster which will cover  the wall twenty times. The same bushy mustache, the same cropped shirt.  Kerala is also covered, like most of India, with had painted murals. Here though they are a bit different. Large painting of portraits cover most billboards, optical shops, saree stalls. The people of Kerala also seem to be very politically aware and involved. There was a huge communist movement here, which began with a victory in 1957 and even today there are images of the communist party painted every where, with pride. Last night we wondered down the street to a temple for a local festival, which has blared music the past few days. The performers were people from the village and were the exact inspiration I needed to end my stay here. The lovely gentleman playing the mridagum gave me hope, as I now could watch him play and understand the rhythms.

With my new drum under my are and some mudras(hand movements which are popular in many Indian Dance forms) on the tips of my fingers, I leave this school excited for what it has awoken within me. There are, of course, many courses I want to return to explore, but I am content in the knowledge I leave with. Now we head to Bombay, well first we go to an all night Katakali performance, then a two day train, but then Bombay. Gujarat is also in our future, with the hopes of meeting up with some friends from TLFI.

Can I just take a moment and tell you all about the most amazing experience I had yesterday. I keep saying silly things like, "Maybe I won't get a cell phone when I get back." and "It's nice to not have to talk on the phone." This is all before I received my first unexpected phone call from a friend in 7 months. I was minding my own business, the phone rang and Suemetra, the woman who works here said, "Lindsay, it's for you." There was a short exchange to follow: "Me?" "Yes." "Really?" It was amazing and put me in the best mood, filled with the excitement at the possibility of seeing them soon.  


 

A Normal Day

Each morning I seem to wake up before my alarm has a chance to disrupt my deep sleep. There is rich, orange light coming through my window, which hits my light up Sai Baba night light just so. And for the first time in my life I can't make myself go back to sleep, I want to get up. The morning greets me kindly as I open the door to porch and allow the light to spill in, the sounds of India are alive in those few brief moments. My balcony over looks at Toddy House, which is sort of like a bar that's made of bamboo. And I swear there are more people there in the mornings than any other time of day. I am then off to breakfast, always one the first for the 8am food rush. When I say "food rush" I mean some nice Nes Cafe, maybe an idly or two, a nice somber and coconut chutney. There is also an obsession with lemon water, which I have become an addict of. The day is broken up of hours chunks, each building within a 5 minute walk, taking away any excuse for a change in schedule. After breakfast I walk down the main road to the school house, where all of my classes are held. I site in the outdoor stage and practice my mridagum for the better part of an hour, just trying to inverate the rhythms into my veins. After a nights rest the beats come easier than the day before, it could be because they seem to haunt me in my dreams. Blayne then comes for his lesson, so I am off the check my e-mail. It's an hour filled with talking to Jessica Lennard on G-Chat, receiving maybe one new e-mail and forgetting to respond to it, looking for jobs, for grad schools, for apartments, hoping someone has updated their blogs and trying to remember why I came to the internet in the first place. As 11 approaches I head back to the school and listen to Blayne finish his lesson, it's sort of cheating so I can know what the next hour will bring me as well. Playing the mridagum is an intoxicating experience, having never really played an instrument before the idea of keeping rhythm is both difficult and thrilling. I find my hands slowly becoming familiar with with rhythms, rather than notes. As the speeds increase you can no longer really think about what you're doing, but are forced let you sub-conscious take control. I end each lesson with my hands throbbing and red, but ususally with a sense of accomplishment. Having conquered the songs from the previous day and begun a new chapter. Lunch is a smaller version of dinner, pared down quantaties of chutneys and sombers. Still the same addictive lemon water, and perhaps a cup of tea. Then back to my mridagum for another hour, by the end of this lesson it feels like my arms are going to fly off at any moment. My teacher is always patient and kind, telling me how well I'm doing and how far I've come. He shows up each day wearing a white lungi and a small leaf tucked behind his right ear. The beautiful leaf comes from the habit of paan, which is served on a leaf with a beetle nut. After class I head straight to my woodcarving class, with one of the kindest men, Sanji. He refers to each of the animals we can see from his class as his friends and can hear the elephants quiet chains before they approach the corner where we can see them as they carry food back to the temple. I have almost completed an elephant, which I will display proudly on my wall. It is a difficult task, woodcarving, there is some much care and attention placed on carving slowing and meticulously. It is done with only a chisel and wooden hammer and the concentration is on taking away the layers of the wood one by one. It's quite a change from my gargoyle which involved power tools and the quick pace Joe forces up on you. Then we take tea and I prepare for Kalari class. Kalari is an ancient Keralan martial art, which is inspired by the movements of animals. The is an emphasis on stamina and building it up. You can do one movement back and forth for 20 minutes, before moving onto the next. Like yoga the movements are specific and your body can receive the most intense workout with the slightest movement. Dinner time is the real feast as we sit at one long wooden table, under a bamboo pavillion. The food is incrediable, as each scoop hits the banana leaf your senses are overwhelmed. There are usually 5 different curries, rice, dal, papad, some fresh vegtables, maybe a nice cucumber yogurt sauce. The mound of food piles up and I find myself eating more than I have in my entire life. You just can't leave such amazing food on your banana leaf. We all eat with out hands, squeezing a bit to perfection before scooping inside your mouth. The spices are rich and layered, a dish can be equally sweet and spicy, perfect. Devon has a lot to live up to. The evening is filled with conversation about class and the upcoming plans for the weekend. Then we usually close the night infront of the television watching a classic Bollywood movie. In there is, of course, two or three showers depending on the heat, some sitar playing and those, oh so much fun, GRE flashcards.

Rinse and repeat if necessary.

Summer Camp, oh wait, I mean India

I left Sri Lanka on a good note, with only a yearn to see more and travel farther into it's intricate wilds. We did a pretty good job of avoiding the Tigers, civil war and even highly Tsunami destructed areas. In the end I think we may have been too cautious with the potential war areas, considering it felt like everyone we met had either been east and north or were on their way. In the end,unlike traveling through the middle east or somewhere else the US has picked a fight with, the war in Sri Lanka is within it's own boundaries. They have no qualms with me. It was actually weird to be in a county that, while everyone disagrees with the Iraq war, really appreciates not just America but the world. They had this huge catastrophe and the world was there within hours to help them onto their feet, which is more than we can say for Hurricane Katirina.  After leaving the comforts of Jack's place we headed south to the beach for one day, the drive was amazing. We drove by villages constructed with only new homes and a sign would say "Brought to you by the Swiss People", these was even a park name Friendship Park, built by the Pakistan Army. And not everything is perfect, next to these beautiful new house, people are still living in wood shacks as they await help. It was amazing to see so many countries names tagged to the building of Sri Lanka. Note: We never say anything donated by the American Government. Although my mom would be happy to know we did pass though several villages sponsored by World Vision. I must admit I used to think it corny to receive a "goat" for Christmas, which was in a World Vision Village somewhere in the world, but now I really understand what that means and it's amazing.

 

 

Well, a day before we left Sri Lanka we found out that there was a surprising opening in an art school we had been desperate to attend. The idea being you can study 2 subjects, take yoga and a martial arts class as well. It's been wonderful. I have my own room, I unpacked all my stuff and even decorated. Everything has it's place. I have a balcony. My room could not be more of what I needed. Currently I'm taking woodcarving, my elephant it almost completed. I took a little bit of classical dance, while my other teacher was away. This went better than one who knows my lack of grace would think. It's focused on the eyes and hand gestures, I think I may drop woodcarving and give it a try. I like it because it's 100 percent Indian, unlike woodcarving, which is 100 percent wood and chisels.  The most difficult class I'm taking is the Mridagum, a drum. It's my "focus" and absolutely addicting. It's a hard(physically) drum to beat, so my hands are swelling, but it's coming along. I, the beatless wonder, am slowing gaining confidence to whack it will all I've got. Because, like most things, once I stop thinking too much it all works out well.

 

So that's the short of it. This place sort of feels like summer camp, I mean we go to classes and eat at a long table. There are 18 students, ranging from 19-65 from all over the world. We eat on banana leaves and sing at the table. Last night we even had an amazing evening of Kantra Dancing, which is like Square Dancing. Just like summer camp.

Jesus and Mickey

Yes, we were asked to paint a mural with Jesus and Mickey Mouse. No, we did not do it.

 

The orphanage was more amazing than we could have ever hoped for. To begin with it's not an orphanage and they stress that fully. "This is a children's home and these are my children," the Father and his wife would say over and over again. The idea is when a child moves in they are not going to move out. It's actually a beautiful idea, because they are just a big family who will be together forever, or until they grow up and move away from home. Right now it houses 43 children, ages 1-17. Over the past few years they have started receiving private funding which has help make this an amazing place to live. The kids live in house, 10 kids in each house and one "mother". They surround a huge playground, near by is the kitchen and newly build recreation hall. This is where we come in.

 

There must have been a sale on egg shell paint, because it is everywhere at this place. It doesn't help that Sri Lanka just isn't that colorful, but bland is boring. The Father asked us maybe to paint a mural in the hall, something inspirational. W thought long and hard, after talking to him for a while we decided we wanted to paint a tree in the center having Jesus on one side and Buddha on the other. We are after all in a community which celebrate all religions. Sadly our tree of words was shot down, we clearly did not understand what he wanted. He then asked maybe for Mickey and Jesus... how would a mural like this work we asked our selves? We were told no Buddha because they feared the children would start worshipping other idols, besides Jesus. What about Mickey, is he okay to worship? Well, the father started bring in picture ideas, most of Tweety Bird and The Lion King. Eek. Did I mention how hard it is to get paint with rich, vibrant pigment.

 

Well, we chose a picture of Simba, in silhouette during sunset. It's not that I'm anti-Disney, but we wanted to just leave a nice mural that could stand alone. Well it worked amazingly well, because the Lion in the animal of Sri Lanka. We added birds and elephants. It was amazing because we chose a simple image which meant we were able to let the kids help up a lot. We painted while they were at school and then they would help once they got home. During the day some of the kids stay home for one reason or another. We had the most amazing autistic boy who latched on to us our first day there. Some of the women who worked there told us that he didn't speak, I think expecting us move on. But I could really talk to any of the kids. He would sit while we painted and sing, he would show us places we had missed and even painted some with us. He was amazing.

 

We wanted to give something to this community and I'm glad it was the color of a sunset.

 

 

Stuck in Sri Lanka

I know, everyone wants to know about Sri Lanka and here it is. Sri Lanka is magical, a place like none I have visited before. Where to begin?

 

After our incident with the peeping tom I decided that what I really need was a few days alone in the mountains.  So I was off one morning to catch the train... which I missed. I have this habit of not letting people take advantage of me. So I refused to take a rickshaw that was going to over charge me. I knew there was another train, the only problem being I had to change trains at a small station in the country. Well I did, I promptly got on the 12:30 train when it arrived. We pulled about one km from the station when I realized, after making small talk someone selling nuts I realized I was on the wrong train.  So in true Sri Lankan style I hopped off the train while it was stopped and followed the tracks back to the station. I get 25 style points for that one. The train rides, like I've said before, are amazing. I would come to Sri Lanka just to ride the trains through out the country, the landscape flying by, my train often above the clouds which lay low in the valley.  Arriving in the small town of Ella, without a rickshaw in sight I headed into town on foot.

 

The town of Ella is set in the hills and made up mostly of small guest houses and family farms. As it poured rain(which was the most amazing feeling) I sort of wondered through the side of this hill trying to find the perfect guest house, that was in my budget of little to nothing. And I did, at the very top with an amazing view.  It had a hot shower, a fan, mosquito net. What more could I ask for. After I settled in I went and sat in the little restaurant, which offered amazing views of the valley and Ella's rock and read my book and sipped tea, which had been grown by the family. That night as I had the most amazing home made dinner and drank a beer to celebrate the rain.

 

My time in Ella only lasted a few days, but I would go back in an instant. The village it's self is filled with small amazing gardens and farms. If you walk 2km in any direction you are without a doubt in the middle of some tea plantation. And it's amazing because you are not a spectacle there, and at the same time the place has no been ruined by tourism. On one of my longer walks I came across a group of women picking tea, just like in the pictures you've seen of Sri Lanka. Well, they stopped me to show me what they had picked and I gave them the water I had on me. It was amazing to see the these old women doing the same job they'd had for years, in the blazing hot sun and their amazingly rough leather skin holding huge similes.

 

My time alone also through me into the world of solo travelers and made me realize this is a tight knit community. Whenever I'd come across another traveler, they'd always come up and try to make small talk. It's sort of a system of just making sure everyone is doing okay and doesn't need anything.  It made me realize how bad my social skills can be, or rather how much worse they've become. I can only talk to someone about nothing for so long. Alas, I digress.

 

The plan was to meet up with Katie and Blayne and climb Adams peak, a quick 4 hours return trip during the sun rise hour. Delhousie, the town which lays at the base is sort of life an amusement park. The streets are lined with people selling everything, from plastic flowers to large tiger shaped piggy banks. It had been the exact opposite of Ella and when I found Katie and Blayne it appeared the town was slowly sucking their soul away as well. We decided that when we awoke at 2:30 and left for the top of Adam's Peak we would take all our stuff and go down the other side, there were rumors of a path leading to a smaller town. 

 

4800 steps all going up at 3 am isn't exactly my idea of fun, but the sun rise was amazing. It's weird to look back of the last few months and realize how many sun rises I've seen on this side of the world, and some how never being able to fit in a sun rise in Chicago. Sad. South of the sun rising was a beautiful lightening storm, which seemed to envelop that side of the sky and make us a little nervous for our journey down with all of our stuff. Now when I say all of our stuff, I mean some satchels crammed with clothes and sleeping bags. 

 

The journey down the other side was longer and steeper than we could have ever thought. There were three basic choices of variation along the path. One would be concrete steps, not uniform, but not so bad. So old stone steps, probably the steps which lead Buddha to the top of the peak to begin with(only joking). Or rocks. Just rocks, down a steep path. We all sort of cried out for Riley and Dan, hoping to channel their wilderness paramedic skills if we happened to fall. I am proud to say I didn't fall one, quite an accomplishment if you ask me. This journey was a thousand time more beautiful than they way up, and the villages we passed through were breath taking, but it felt nice to sit down and have an amazing pizza that afternoon. We had walked 22km and our guess us 16,000 proper steps, not including rocks. It took my calves a few days to get back to the happy use of the squat toilet, but they are happy once again.

 

After some advice from Hayden, a fellow traveler, we headed to Katragama, the peace center of Sri Lanka. It boasts to be the only place in Sri Lanka where the religions come together to worship in one place. We were headed to a place called Jack's Place, think commune. It's run by an American, Dee, who is from Cincinnatti and a Sri Lankan, Sylva. It fells like staying at a friends house, we can cook whenever we want. There's a tire swing and a tree house. Last night we spent hours boiling water to fill up the huge stone tub. There is the main building, the house part, then on the back of the property they've started building Kuti's, mud houses/shrines. Each one representing a different religion and completley hand made. It feels like everything we could have ever hoped the farm to be. 

 

We are in the midst of figuring our how we can help the village, which has changed a lot since the tsunami. We have already changed our plane tickets once, so our time is running out. I think we have decided to do some painting in a local orphanage. The kids have new rooms, but the wall are bare. If there is anything I've learned it's a little color goes a long way.

 

That's the short version of what we've been up to. Oh and I have 3 exciting bit of news.

 

1. One of my good friend David Chapman was just chosen as a Luce Scholar, to travel to East and South East Asia for a year. I'm must admit to being a little sad that our years couldn't correlate, but alas.

 

2. Happy birthday to Doug, who is still rocking in NY and guarding his soul the best he can.

 

3. My sister, Angelica, 7, made her first attempt at running away. My mom is a little scared that we are so similar as children, I'm so proud.